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Palace on Wheels

Agatha Christie has immortalized the luxury train, the Venice-Simplon Orient Express, in her novel as the most luxurious mode of transport across Europe, for the rich and the famous. In India the hospitality and royal heritage of the East, found its full flavor in private trains run by Kings, for their personal use or for their exclusive guests. In the Palace on Wheels, you can relive the experience of the royal mode of Tour of yesteryears, with all the modern conveniences of the present day.

RAILWAYS IN THE TIME OF THE RAJ

It was the British who introduced railways to India during their rule over the sub-continent. Their need to ferry troops rapidly through the length and breadth of the country, transport raw materials to ports and bring finished goods to inland cities dictated the routes along which tracks were laid. The Indian Princes, seeing the advantages of this means of transportation, were quick to introduce this novel idea and set about establishing their own networks, within their princely states. After India gained Independence, these private networks were merged into the unified entity called Indian Railways, which criss-crosses the length and breath of the country.

While the princely railways evoke memories of an era of wooden carriages and spacious compartments, it was the private carriages of the Kings that represented the best each princely state had to offer. Here, coaches were embellished with the state's coat of arms, and the suites on wheels became, literally, miniaturized palaces on wheels. Each princely coach or set of coaches, had formal living rooms and dining rooms, meeting rooms and studies, and, of course, bedrooms and zenana wings for the royal women. And they were lavishly furnished with comforts and amenities-heavy furniture in the art déco style, which was sweeping across Europe and the Indian princely residences during the turn of the 19th century. Brocaded canopies on beds, and matched linen, along with drapes, priceless carpets on the floors, expensive bric-a-brac, the saloons had them all!

The princes Toured in style indeed. The finest chefs prepared delicacies in the attached pantry cars. The Viceroy of India was invited on board to roll through the desert, as the princes went visiting, or attending lavish marriage ceremonies, or for a week's shikar on board their saloons. With independence, the integration of the royal states, and the withdrawal of princely privileges, most of the royal saloons were gradually abandoned. Many succumbed to the ravages of time; some were used (as in the case of the Maharaja's saloon in Jodhpur) for private purposes, and others lay forgotten.

LAUNCHING OF THE PALACE ON WHEELS

Till the 1980's, that is, when the Indian Railways and Rajasthan Tourism got together to resurrect some of these forgotten symbols of India's historic heritage. Thirteen carriages from different princely states were brought together and refurbished, and the Palace on Wheels was launched. A superb train that evokes the past but has every modern facility and offers a journey of a lifetime, to people from anywhere in the world - making them feel like royalty during their week-long journey.

For, along with the restored carriages - some still glowing with their original teakwood panels intact - are liveried attendants, royal repasts from the attached kitchen, a lounge, and a dining car. The tour has a fixed itinerary. The journey begins and ends in Delhi. En route, the train Tours through princely Rajasthan, Jaipur, Chittaurgarh, Udaipur, Sawai Madhopur, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, and Bharatpur as its principal highlights. Each morning, guests wake up to bed-tea and breakfast on board. After this, one can opt for a hot water bath, and then visit the town that the train halts in, to see the sights and colors of Rajasthan. The forts, palaces and temples, the bazaars thronging with people, the incredible, amazing celebration of colour. At nighttime the Tourers sleep in their own palace on wheels, and by day they tour the royal heritage of Rajasthan. It is an experience not to be missed.

The Palace on Wheels had become so popular and there is and would always be resistance to any move to discontinue it. The result was a spanking new train that faithfully recreated the old one, but is much more comfortable, and intended to provide a smoother ride. However, this too was on the meter gauge being used for yet another exotic journey in the form of the Royal Orient Express that Tours from Delhi to parts of Rajasthan, but is used primarily to discover the neighboring state of Gujarat.

The new Palace on Wheels, on broad gauge, is clearly the pride of the Indian Railways. It is luxurious, and it is modern. The coaches have different names derived from the former princely states and that provides the link for the coat of arms and the decor inside. The rooms and corridors are carpeted, the furniture inlaid and upholstered especially for the train. Within each carriage are comfortable showers, built-in wardrobes with full-length mirrors, overhead and night-lights, piped music, service bells and a public address system. Blinds drape large windows, which frame views across the desert and the passing arid landscape. At the end of each coach is a lounge.

Wood paneled walls, painted stained glass skylights, and liveried attendants who respond to every call, make the experience of the journey memorable. However, the vestibule coaches also connect with two restaurants, the Maharaja and the Maharani, and the bar where a range of cocktails is on offer. Damask tablecloths drape the tables, and the rear romantic lights and exclusive tableware make the perfect setting for Indian, Continental, and occasionally Chinese meals, served on board. The service is unobtrusive, attentive, and efficient.

This, then, is the way the maharajahs must have Toured. It certainly is the way an exclusive of world Tourers chooses to relax. And if the journey aboard the Palace on Wheels is rewarding enough, the points of arrival in Rajasthan - Bharatpur, Jaipur, Chittaurgarh, Udaipur, and Sawai Madhopur (for visiting the Ranthambhore National Park) are like the icing on the cake. For sheer romance, the Palace on Wheels must be the most luxurious way to see Rajasthan. But how could one expect any less from a country like India, and a state like Rajasthan, where history is not just a figment of the past, but a vibrant part of the living present.